In the footsteps of her pharmacist grandfather. "But now cosmetics are a woman. And they can be Made in Italy."

The "women's factory" is in Lodi , with 79 percent of its 670 employees being female , well above the manufacturing sector average. The same prevalence is found in logistics, a typically male-dominated field. This is also why last year, "Industrie cosmetiche riunite," a company specializing in selective perfumery, obtained Gender Equality certification, much to the pride of Ambra Martone, its vice president.

Fragrances, often artistic and niche, are high-quality, crafted with prized natural raw materials not found in large retail chains. ICR is structured to offer a complete, integrated in-house production and logistics process. It has broken the taboo of French perfume, which the most celebrated designers and fashion houses considered, up to a certain point, the only option. "In our contract manufacturing business, entirely made in Italy —a national pride—we work for Italian and international luxury, fashion, jewelry, and even financial brands seeking their own olfactory signature."

The third generation

Granddaughter and daughter of a family of artists, the third generation to lead the family business, Ambra Martone , born in Milan 43 years ago to Milanese parents, knew from an early age that her future lay in perfumery. "My father Roberto, instead of toys and dolls, brought me perfumes, and I was still a young girl when he had me take olfactory courses in Milan, Grasse , and New York . I met important 'noses,' an almost inaccessible world of charismatic people, masters who support the young person to reveal the secrets of the trade and who are among our best friends."

Grandfather Vincenzo , a pharmacist who in 1940 produced penicillin, antibiotics, and other over-the-counter drugs, envisioned cosmetics as an extension of his fragrance, skincare, and makeup business, adopting the Marvin brand, his acronym. "In 1969, he even won a Cosmetology Oscar for being the first to apply hypoallergenic testing to his face creams."

In 1975, it was Roberto's son's turn to take over and redefine the family business's identity. He focused entirely on perfume with Industrie cosmetiche reunite, which this year celebrates its half-century mark. In 2015, he will sell 60 percent of his ITF (Italian Fragrances), the commercial arm of ICR, to the Angelini pharmaceutical group.

“My father knocked on the doors of top designers to convince them to produce their luxury perfumes in Italy. While some were turned down, many others responded positively. The first partnership in the 1980s with Trussardi , with the men's and women's perfume, the best-selling in Italy, was a resounding success. Then came Versace, Ferré, Romeo Gigli, Cavalli, Dsquared2, and many others along the way.”

The first brand, in the founder's footsteps

In 2013, Ambra and her sister Giorgia, two years older, founded their own brand, LabSolue , following in the footsteps of their grandfather Vincenzo's historic brand. Today, the brand is sold directly from their two locations in Milan and Rome, offering an artistic, artisanal experience. "We fill and package the perfumes in front of our customers, adding the label and screw pump."

Giorgia, who was the marketing director of the family company, passed away in 2021. Ambra Martone, demonstrating an independent spirit, didn't join the company immediately. After graduating from Zaccaria High School and studying Economics at Bocconi University, the future entrepreneur left for the US for a university internship in New York at one of the leading fragrance and aroma companies, the Swiss company Firmenich , and spent six months in California at the University of California, Santa Barbara .

In America she met Paolo, who worked in finance, “an old-school man,” with whom she would marry and have three children: Allegra, now 13, and twins Gregorio and Tancredi, 11. From the US to Geneva. I joined Procter & Gamble as an assistant brand manager, an entry-level position, but in the division that interested me most; they had Dolce & Gabbana and Hugo Boss. I learned about the second half of the supply chain, packaging design, and communications. It allowed me to travel the world. I stayed abroad for six years. The path I chose helped me, gave me confidence, and increased my credibility. I added my own sense of humility, of always listening, of knowing I don't know. Quality, meticulousness, and expertise allow us to defend ourselves and do well. I'm not one for haste; beautiful and important things have a time frame, and we must respect it. It's a family business, but not a family-oriented one, a managerial joint stock company: with my father, the CEO, and me, initially a director and now, for four years, vice president, there's a general manager to whom all the other managers report.

The importance of “noses”

The facilities, which operate on three shifts, are divided into two main areas: one dedicated to alcoholic perfumery and the other to scented bath products. "We work with the essential oil companies who oversee the composition of the ingredients that will bring the fragrance to life. They employ renowned 'noses' and artists; we prepare briefs, a stage set of lights, colors, music, and emotions. They present us with a series of proposals, and we select the one we believe has the greatest potential. We then refine it like a precious stone, and with alcohol and essential oil in our laboratories, the formula is born."

In 2024, ICR exceeded €202 million in revenue , a 20 percent increase over the previous year. This milestone was achieved thanks to a €25 million investment in the Lodi plant to strengthen its research and development and microbiology laboratories, two new automated filling and packaging lines that will increase production by 20 million units per year from the current 120 million units, and an automated warehouse with 60,000 pallet spaces, covering a total covered area of 65,000 square meters, which will be operational by the end of the year. Four million liters of perfume are produced annually, which translates into over 100 million bottles of perfume filled and shipped to more than 120 markets worldwide.

Distribution began a couple of years ago in Japan, Taiwan, Kazakhstan, Armenia, South America, Buenos Aires, and with excellent results in Mexico City; recently, Russia as well. And the company's commitment to sustainability is growing: in addition to the 1.9 million megawatt photovoltaic system that covers 30 percent of its energy needs, "and saves us a million kilos of carbon dioxide each year," a second 1.6 megawatt system will be installed.

Travels in search of smells

The sourcing of raw materials is crucial. "The main one is alcohol , and since 2019 we've been sourcing exclusively from European agricultural sources. We used to use Hungarian corn, but now we've switched to Hungarian sugar beet, which is eight times more environmentally efficient because it uses less water and greatly promotes biodiversity." The entrepreneur travels from East to West in search of special raw materials. "Mine are olfactory journeys, from the earth to the bottle, meeting the farmers. In Madagascar I went for Ylang Ylang, a beautiful flower with a narcotic scent grown in the north of the island. Kilograms of flowers collected in tanks are left to macerate, distilled with steam currents that condense and boil. The scent is amazing. In Spain , for the aromatic, citrusy white sage, called Nursia, it grows in a very arid area, and the aridity favors the production of essential oil. They are very small plants with an extraordinary scent."

Calabria is home to bergamot , one of the most important raw materials. "We promote it: it's used in 86 percent of the top notes of all the perfumes launched worldwide, the first to be perceived, usually fresh and volatile. As president of the Academy of Perfume, I went to Reggio Calabria for the Bergaré event. Bergamot DOP is grown in a 100-kilometer strip of land stretching from Villa San Giovanni to Gioiosa Jonica, accounting for 90 percent of the world's production. If we were in France, it would be protected like champagne ."

Perfume is also linked to social dynamics, to the concept of health and well-being; in the past, it was more of an accessory for special occasions and aimed at making an impression on others; today, it has a personal value. And more and more young people are falling in love with it. "Even though this year has been flat, the slowdown is widespread in a world in crisis, we are experiencing a renaissance in national and international perfumery. It's essential to find the right partners who share our craftsmanship and in-store experience, who share our codes and values. We've had customers for over 30 years, and more are arriving. We're at the right time in the right place."

The historic factory is now a "5 star" hotel. Themed

The old perfume factory in Milan's Tortona district was transformed into a five-star hotel in 1991, the Magna Pars Hotel à parfum, where guests are taken on an olfactory journey, featuring 68 woody, floral, fruity, and aromatic notes, a unique fragrance for each suite. "I try to surround myself with qualified people. I think it's right for the company to attract talent. A good example speaks louder than words. I'm the first to put myself out there. It's important to leave space. My children are a force of nature, accustomed to having two parents like us who work and travel. My daughter and I go horseback riding on weekends; we love nature and animals. The boys do cross-country skiing, my husband follows them, he takes them, and the truck with the motorcycles—they're incredibly demanding disciplines." What perfume does Ambra Martone wear? "Perfumes that don't yet have names; I wear six, eight different ones on my arms. My husband says it feels like he's always next to a new woman. I recently read 'Dear Death, My Friend,' by Gaia Trussardi, whom I know well; she's had tragic experiences. I have a dream: to create a perfume museum in Milan, a journey from the earth to the glass bottle."